Lip care occlusive and emollient agents
ChemicalSubstanceOcclusive and emollient agents that reduce TEWL and restore intercellular lipids in lips, addressing their thin barrier and lack of sebum to prevent dehydration and structural dryness.
Chemical Substance
61 entities in this category
Explore the Science of Chemical Substances
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Magnesium
ChemicalSubstanceA core cofactor for energy and repair pathways; serum levels mask depletion because magnesium is tightly held in cells and bone, not blood.
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Monounsaturated fatty acids
ChemicalSubstanceA class of fatty acids characterised by a single double bond in the carbon chain, placing them structurally and functionally between saturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids.
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Neuropeptide
ChemicalSubstanceNeuropeptides are small signalling peptides released from nerve terminals in the skin, acting as chemical messengers between the nervous system and cutaneous immune, vascular, and epithelial cells.
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Omega-3 fatty acids
ChemicalSubstanceEssential fatty acids with anti-inflammatory properties, supporting barrier function and skin health when consumed in adequate amounts.
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Omega-6 fatty acids
ChemicalSubstanceEssential fatty acids that promote inflammation when consumed excessively relative to omega-3s, common in modern Western diets.
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Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4
ChemicalSubstanceMatrixyl is a palmitoylated pentapeptide that signals fibroblasts to boost collagen I, III, and IV, glycosaminoglycans, and fibronectin, making it one of the most studied cosmetic signal peptides.
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Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
ChemicalSubstanceA signal peptide that delivers the GHK matrikine sequence to dermal fibroblasts via a palmitoyl tail, stimulating collagen I, III, and IV synthesis and fibronectin production.
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Pantothenic acid
ChemicalSubstanceWater-soluble B vitamin and the intracellular metabolite of dexpanthenol in skin tissue. Supports energy metabolism, fatty acid synthesis. Drives keratinocyte proliferation and fibroblast function.
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Peptides
ChemicalSubstancePeptides are short amino‑acid chains that act as targeted signalling molecules in skincare, directing fibroblasts, melanocytes, immune cells, and neuromuscular junctions.
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Phytoceramides
ChemicalSubstancePlant-derived ceramides taken orally, with research showing improved skin hydration after 12 weeks of consistent supplementation.
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Polyunsaturated fatty acids
ChemicalSubstanceA class of dietary fats defined by multiple double bonds in their carbon chain. Includes the omega-3 and omega-6 families.
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Proline
ChemicalSubstanceAn amino acid that forms the structural backbone of the collagen triple helix, where it provides rigidity and resistance to mechanical stress.
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Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
ChemicalSubstanceA naturally occurring humectant produced in the stratum corneum from filaggrin-derived glutamine. One of the largest single components of natural moisturising factor (NMF) by volume.
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Reactive oxygen and nitrogen species
ChemicalSubstanceA family of chemically reactive molecules comprising reactive oxygen species (ROS) and reactive nitrogen species (RNS) generated continuously in skin tissue.
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Retinoid
ChemicalSubstanceVitamin A derivatives that act via retinoic acid receptors but differ in receptor selectivity, conversion steps, and tolerability, making clinical choice dependent on skin state and treatment goals.
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Saturated fatty acids
ChemicalSubstanceA class of fatty acids characterised by a fully saturated carbon chain with no double bonds, making them chemically stable and resistant to oxidation.
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Sebum
ChemicalSubstanceThe complex lipid mixture secreted by sebaceous glands onto the skin surface via the follicular canal.
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Serine
ChemicalSubstanceSerine is a key amino acid for skin, required for ceramide synthesis via serine palmitoyltransferase and as a major NMF component that supports hydration and keratinocyte proliferation.
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Short-chain fatty acid
ChemicalSubstanceShort-chain fatty acids are microbially-derived metabolites - principally butyrate, propionate, and acetate - that serve as the primary functional output of a healthy gut microbiome.
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Sodium lauryl sulfate
ChemicalSubstanceAn anionic surfactant used in cleansers, shampoos, and personal care products that disrupts the stratum corneum through two sequential mechanisms.
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Substance P
ChemicalSubstanceSubstance P is an 11‑amino‑acid neuropeptide that drives neurogenic inflammation, itch, pain, mast‑cell activation, and stress‑linked hair shedding via NK1 receptor signalling in skin.
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Sunscreen active ingredients
ChemicalSubstanceSunscreen actives divide into mineral and chemical filters. The clinically meaningful distinction is systemic absorption, not UV mechanism — both primarily absorb UV radiation.
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Tallow
ChemicalSubstanceRendered beef fat with a saturated and monounsaturated fatty acid profile compositionally similar to the free fatty acid fraction of healthy stratum corneum.
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Thyroid hormone
ChemicalSubstanceMetabolic hormones produced by the thyroid gland, with imbalances affecting hair growth cycles and skin quality.
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Vitamin A
ChemicalSubstanceFat‑soluble vitamin whose active form (ATRA) regulates thousands of genes via nuclear receptors to drive epidermal renewal, boost collagen, suppress MMPs, and balance sebum.
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Vitamin B12
ChemicalSubstanceWater‑soluble vitamin whose cofactor roles in methylation and fatty‑acid metabolism make deficiency visible as acral hyperpigmentation, hair changes, and barrier fragility.
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Vitamin B3
ChemicalSubstanceWater-soluble B vitamin whose cosmeceutically active derivative - niacinamide (nicotinamide) - is the primary form relevant to skin biology
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Vitamin D
ChemicalSubstanceFat‑soluble secosteroid whose active form (calcitriol) is made in the epidermis and, via VDR, regulates keratinocyte differentiation, antimicrobial peptides, barrier function, and innate immunity.
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Vitamin E
ChemicalSubstanceFat‑soluble antioxidant concentrated at the skin surface, where it blocks UV‑driven lipid peroxidation and squalene oxidation; regenerated by vitamin C, making them a coupled antioxidant system.