Hyperpigmentation
All three forms of hyperpigmentation converge on a common molecular event: upregulation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in melanocytes, which drives expression of the three melanogenic enzymes – tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TYRP1), and TYRP2 – that produce and regulate melanin synthesis. What differs between presentations is the upstream signal activating MITF: UV radiation via the α-MSH/MC1R/ cAMP/CREB pathway and the SCF/c-KIT pathway in solar lentigines; oestrogen and progesterone acting on melanogenic enzymes and MITF directly, compounded by UV, in melasma; and prostaglandins, leukotrienes, cytokines, and ROS from the arachidonic acid cascade in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The distinction between epidermal and dermal pigment deposition – and the melanophage entrapment mechanism that makes dermal PIH treatment-resistant – is the single most important assessment variable before selecting any treatment approach.
The Melanogenesis Pathway
Melanin is synthesised in melanocytes within specialised organelles called melanosomes. The pathway begins with tyrosinase – the rate-limiting enzyme of melanogenesis – oxidising tyrosine to L-DOPA and subsequently to dopaquinone. Dopaquinone is then processed through either the eumelanin pathway (brown-black pigment, dominant in darker skin types) or the pheomelanin pathway (red-yellow pigment, dominant in lighter skin types with MC1R variants). [7]
MITF is the master transcriptional regulator of this process – it activates transcription of TYR, TYRP1, and TYRP2, and is itself activated by two primary upstream pathways that converge on cAMP/CREB signalling: the α-MSH/MC1R receptor pathway and the SCF/c-KIT tyrosine kinase pathway. Both UV radiation and hormonal stimulation reach melanogenesis primarily through MITF rather than acting directly on the enzymatic machinery. [3]
Once melanin is synthesised and packaged into melanosomes, transfer to surrounding keratinocytes occurs via melanocyte dendritic extensions – melanosomes are phagocytosed by keratinocytes through a process regulated by the PAR-2 receptor. [6] This transfer step is a distinct therapeutic target: even when melanin synthesis is reduced, abnormal transfer regulation can maintain hyperpigmentation, and vice versa.
Solar Lentigines and UV-Driven Melanogenesis
Solar lentigines are epidermal hyperpigmentation lesions caused by chronic UV exposure, representing both increased melanocyte activity and localised melanocyte proliferation rather than simply increased pigment production from a stable cell population.
UV radiation drives melanogenesis through two converging routes. First, UV-exposed keratinocytes upregulate and release α-MSH, which binds MC1R on adjacent melanocytes, activating the cAMP/CREB/MITF cascade and driving tyrosinase expression. Second, UV induces SCF secretion from both keratinocytes and fibroblasts – SCF binding its c-KIT receptor on melanocytes drives both MITF activation and melanocyte proliferation, increasing the number of pigment-producing cells as well as their output per cell. [4] Chronic UV also accumulates direct DNA damage in melanocytes, and the DNA damage response itself activates melanogenesis through p53-mediated POMC/α-MSH upregulation – meaning UV damage and UV-triggered pigmentation are part of the same molecular event.
Solar lentigines are confined to the epidermis and respond predictably to treatments that target epidermal pigment: IPL, thulium fractional laser, and chemical peels that induce controlled desquamation of pigmented corneocytes alongside inhibition of tyrosinase activity at the renewal cycle level.
Melasma: Hormonal, UV, Vascular, and Dermal Mechanisms
Melasma is the most complex and treatment-resistant of the three presentations. Its defining feature is a multifactorial aetiology in which UV and hormonal signals interact synergistically rather than additively, and in which dermal as well as epidermal changes contribute to the presentation.
Hormonal mechanisms: Oestrogen directly stimulates melanogenesis through multiple routes – upregulating α-MSH and its receptor MC1R, enhancing tyrosinase expression, and activating MITF transcription. [8] Progesterone acts through a distinct route via PI3K/Akt/GSK3β pathway activation, driving melanogenesis through a non-cAMP mechanism that is not addressed by the same upstream interventions that target UV-driven melanogenesis. Both hormones additionally drive ROS production that creates a positive feedback loop: ROS activates melanogenesis, which generates more oxidative stress, perpetuating the pigment cycle independently of ongoing hormonal or UV stimulation.
Dermal component: Melasma is not purely epidermal. Affected skin shows increased dermal vascularity – elevated VEGF expression – and fibroblast activation in the papillary dermis that upregulates SCF production, providing a sustained paracrine melanogenic signal from the dermis independently of UV or hormonal triggers. [2] This dermal component explains why melasma recurs rapidly after surface-level treatment and why purely topical approaches targeting epidermal melanin without addressing the dermal paracrine environment produce temporary rather than durable improvement.
The clinical consequences of this architecture: melasma requires treatment approaches that address the epidermal pigment, the vascular component, the dermal fibroblast signal, and the UV/hormonal triggers simultaneously rather than sequentially. Any single-mechanism approach is treating one facet of a multi-source problem.
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: The Arachidonic Acid Route
PIH is mechanistically distinct from both solar lentigines and melasma: its primary trigger is cutaneous inflammation rather than UV or hormonal signals, and the pathway to melanocyte activation runs through the arachidonic acid cascade rather than through MITF-activating growth factor receptors.
Inflammation – from any source – triggers release of prostaglandins E2 and D2, leukotrienes LTC4 and LTD4, thromboxane-2, IL-1, IL-6, TNF, and EGF from inflammatory cells, keratinocytes, and melanocytes. [5] These mediators collectively stimulate melanocyte activity and enhance melanosome transfer to surrounding keratinocytes. ROS generated during the inflammatory process additionally activates melanogenesis directly through oxidative pathway engagement, independent of receptor-mediated signalling.
Epidermal vs dermal PIH – the critical distinction: Epidermal PIH represents increased melanin synthesis and transfer within the epidermis and responds to treatments that desquamate pigmented keratinocytes, inhibit tyrosinase activity, and reduce the inflammatory signal driving melanocyte stimulation. Dermal PIH arises when the inflammatory process is severe enough to disrupt the dermo-epidermal junction and basal keratinocyte layer – melanin released from disrupted basal cells is deposited into the papillary dermis where it is engulfed by macrophages, producing melanophages that persist in the dermis independently of any ongoing melanocyte activity. [1] Dermal melanophage entrapment is largely irreversible through topical intervention; the pigment is sequestered within macrophage lysosomes where tyrosinase inhibitors and desquamation agents have no access. This makes treatment-triggered PIH in the dermal compartment a distinct risk category.
A clinically important connection: accumulating senescent fibroblasts in photo-damaged dermis secrete pro-inflammatory cytokines that can stimulate abnormal pigmentation independently of acute inflammation – linking the fibroblast senescence mechanisms described in the Fibroblast entity to PIH susceptibility as a chronic rather than only post-acute risk. [5]
Clinical Application
Assessment Before Treatment Selection
The most useful thing we can do before selecting any treatment for hyperpigmentation is establish which of the three presentations we are actually dealing with – because solar lentigines, melasma, and PIH have genuinely different underlying mechanisms, and the treatment that works well for one can be ineffective or actively counterproductive for another.
A Wood’s lamp examination gives us the most important single piece of information: epidermal pigment fluoresces and appears more pronounced under Wood’s light; dermal pigment does not enhance. That distinction has direct protocol consequences. Epidermal-dominant presentations justify active desquamation and tyrosinase-inhibiting approaches. Dermal pigment requires anti-inflammatory and vascular management over a longer timeline – and honest expectation-setting, because melanophage-trapped dermal pigment is largely inaccessible to topical intervention.
For each presentation, the assessment conversation has a different focus:
- Solar lentigines: UV history is the primary driver. How long, how intense, what SPF history? These are epidermal lesions with a good treatment prognosis, but without daily broad-spectrum protection the treatment result is temporary.
- Melasma: Hormonal history is essential – OCP use, pregnancy history, perimenopausal status. Melasma has a dermal vascular component that explains why it recurs after surface treatment, and clients need to understand from the outset that this is a condition we manage rather than cure. Any plan that doesn’t include addressing the hormonal and UV drivers alongside treatment is missing half the picture.
- PIH: We need to identify what triggered the inflammation – acne, eczema, a previous treatment – and assess Fitzpatrick skin type carefully. PIH risk is substantially amplified in types IV–VI, where the post-inflammatory melanocyte response is significantly stronger, and depth assessment before selecting treatment is essential.
Iatrogenic PIH: The Risk We Own
Any treatment that creates a controlled skin injury – microneedling, RF microneedling, IPL, laser, chemical peels – can trigger PIH in susceptible clients. This is not a reason to withhold effective treatments from higher Fitzpatrick skin types. It is a reason to build a structured pre- and post-treatment protocol that reduces melanocyte hyperresponsiveness before the inflammatory stimulus arrives.
In practice this means tyrosinase-inhibiting topicals – hydroquinone, kojic acid, tranexamic acid, or vitamin C depending on the client – for four to six weeks before treatment, reducing the melanocyte’s capacity to respond to the cascade the treatment will trigger. Post-procedure, anti-inflammatory management through LED and appropriate topicals reduces the inflammatory mediator load in the critical early healing days, and daily SPF from the day the skin is healed enough to tolerate it is non-negotiable.
We have seen this protocol work consistently. What we have also seen is the alternative – treating without preparation and spending the following six months managing PIH that was preventable. The preparation investment is always worth it.
Topical and Homecare Mechanisms
The most effective depigmentation homecare targets multiple points in the melanogenesis pathway simultaneously rather than one enzyme or one step:
| Active | Mechanism | Pathway target |
|---|---|---|
| Hydroquinone | Inhibits tyrosinase; toxic to melanocytes at high doses | TYR enzyme inhibition |
| Kojic acid | Chelates copper in tyrosinase active site | TYR enzyme inhibition |
| Tranexamic acid | Inhibits plasminogen → reduces UV-induced keratinocyte α-MSH release | α-MSH/MC1R upstream |
| Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) | Reduces dopaquinone back to DOPA; antioxidant reduces ROS-driven melanogenesis | Melanin oxidation reduction |
| Azelaic acid | Inhibits tyrosinase; anti-inflammatory reducing PIH cycle | TYR + inflammatory mediator reduction |
| Retinoids | Accelerate epidermal turnover; disperse melanin in keratinocytes; suppress tyrosinase | Transfer dispersion + TYR |
| Niacinamide | Inhibits melanosome transfer via PAR-2 pathway | Transfer step |
The combination logic matters here. Melasma in particular has multiple upstream stimulation sources – UV, oestrogen, dermal fibroblast SCF, ROS – so a single-mechanism inhibitor is addressing one arm of a multi-source problem. Clients who have been using a single brightening ingredient without satisfactory results are often not using the wrong product; they are using a product that only covers one pathway in a condition that needs several covered simultaneously.
Professional Treatments
IPL targets melanin via chromophore-matched wavelengths and is most effective for discrete epidermal solar lentigines. Parameter selection in higher Fitzpatrick types requires care – the thermal energy that clears epidermal pigment can trigger PIH if the melanocyte population is reactive.
Thulium 1927nm fractional laser delivers an epidermal reset – controlled ablative columns desquamate pigmented keratinocytes and activate Wnt/β-catenin renewal, replacing pigmented surface cells with unpigmented proliferating ones. It addresses texture and pigmentation in the same treatment, which is particularly useful for photoaged skin where both problems coexist.
Chemical peels accelerate desquamation of pigmented upper keratinocyte layers and increase epidermal turnover rate, reducing melanin dwell time in the stratum corneum. Superficial peels are appropriate for epidermal PIH and solar lentigines; pre-treatment preparation follows the same protocol as other injury-based treatments.
Polynucleotides are not a direct depigmentation treatment, but for PIH presentations where the inflammatory signal is the active driver, their NF-κB suppression and macrophage-reprogramming mechanism reduces the cytokine environment stimulating ongoing melanocyte activity – addressing the cause rather than the pigment it produces.
References
Davis EC, Callender VD (2010). Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation: a review of the epidemiology, clinical features, and treatment options in skin of color. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol, 3(7), 20-31 . PMC2921758
Espósito ACC, Cassiano DP, da Silva CN, et al. (2022). Update on Melasma-Part I: Pathogenesis. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb), 12(9), 1967-1988 . doi.org/10.1007/s13555-022-00779-x
Kawakami A, Fisher DE (2017). The master role of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor in melanocyte and melanoma biology. Lab Invest, 97(6), 649-656 . doi.org/10.1038/labinvest.2017.9
Liu W, Chen Q, Xia Y (2023). New Mechanistic Insights of Melasma. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol, 16, 429-442 . doi.org/10.2147/ccid.s396272
Markiewicz E, Karaman-Jurukovska N, Mammone T, et al. (2022). Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation in Dark Skin: Molecular Mechanism and Skincare Implications. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol, 15, 2555-2565 . doi.org/10.2147/ccid.s385162
Niu X, Zhi J, Feng M, et al. (2025). Disrupting melanin transfer: innovative strategy for anti-pigmentation drug discovery. J Enzyme Inhib Med Chem, 40(1), 2585581 . doi.org/10.1080/14756366.2025.2585581
Wang F, Ma W, Fan D, et al. (2024). The biochemistry of melanogenesis: an insight into the function and mechanism of melanogenesis-related proteins. Front Mol Biosci, 11, 1440187 . doi.org/10.3389/fmolb.2024.1440187
Zhang J, Wang T, Li Z, et al. (2025). Hormonal Crosstalk in Melasma: Unraveling the Dual Roles of Estrogen and Progesterone in Melanogenesis. Int J Mol Sci, 26(22) . doi.org/10.3390/ijms262210856
Also Known As
- Age spots
Clinical Associations
Referenced By
- this Associated biochemical entity Retinoid Evidence: Academic: Topical retinoids are first-line therapy for hyperpigmentation; pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8776661/
- this Treated by Microneedling Evidence: Review of 64 studies confirmed microneedling reduces melanin density and enhances depigmenting active delivery in melasma/hyperpigmentation; significant MASI reductions. PMC11680975, 2024.
- this Treated by Polynucleotides Evidence: PDRN demonstrates anti-melanogenesis activity; PN HPT improved pigmentation category significantly over 6-month follow-up in Asian cohort n=30. PMC10874187; PMC11311621.
- this Hypothalamic–pituitary–adrenal axis Evidence: POMC co-produces alpha-MSH alongside ACTH; alpha-MSH drives melanogenesis and stress-related hyperpigmentation. PMC5666813
- this Skin Evidence: Hyperpigmentation is a pigmentary disorder of skin; Kovacs et al. (2016) Ann Dermatol 28(3):279 describe epidermal/dermal cross-talk in pigmentary disorders. doi:10.5021/ad.2016.28.3.279
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